A Fabric That Breathes History

Growing up in New Jersey, and now living in Maryland, I’ve come to expect that fall has a mischievous streak — I’d imagine many parts of the US experience this once we get past Labor Day. One moment you’re convinced summer is hanging on — the sun warm on your shoulders, a breeze just enough to keep things pleasant. Hours later, the sky turns, the wind picks up, and suddenly you’re in rain and chill that feels pulled from November. That unpredictability is part of the charm of the season, but it’s also a test. In the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic, you learn quickly that what you wear has to adapt with you.

When we began designing the Cairngorms Field Explorer, we could have taken the easy path. A heavy canvas would have been serviceable. Synthetics — polyester blends — would have checked the box for weather resistance. But that isn’t Arc & Iveagh. Our promise is performance rooted in natural fibers, built for longevity, not disposability. We wanted a material that carried not just function, but heritage. That’s what led us to Dundee, Scotland — to Halley Stevensons.

Since 1864, Halley Stevensons has been perfecting the art of waxed cotton. What began as treated sailcloth for North Sea fishermen evolved, in their mills, into one of the most storied fabrics in outerwear. Their dyeing, waxing, and finishing are all done under one roof, using bespoke machinery and techniques refined over a century and a half. The cloth they produce doesn’t just shed rain — it breathes, it softens, it develops a patina unique to every wearer. It carries with it the pageantry of Scottish resilience and craftsmanship, the quiet prestige of a mill that’s supplied explorers, soldiers, and gentlemen for generations.

So this is why we chose Halley Stevensons. Because a jacket should not only keep out the storm — it should carry a story. In this week’s edition of The Chronicles, we’ll pare back the origins of waxed cotton, what we learned in our research and selection of this fabric, and ultimately how the Cairngorms Field Explorer came to be.

From Sailcloth to Stalkers: Utility & Heritage

When I first started researching fabrics for the Cairngorms Field Explorer, I’ll admit: waxed cotton wasn’t where my mind immediately went. I knew it as a material I’d seen on classic British jackets, but I didn’t know the depth of history or the level of craft behind it. That changed once I started digging, and even more so once I began conversations with Halley Stevensons. What I discovered was a story that stretches back centuries — one that made me realize this fabric wasn’t just right for our jacket, it was essential.

Waxed cotton has its origins at sea, with North Sea fishermen coating their sails and clothing in oils to survive the relentless wind and water. Fish oil, then linseed oil, made the earliest waterproof garments possible — hardly glamorous, but lifesaving. When I learned that Halley Stevensons, founded in Dundee in 1864, had turned this crude necessity into an art form, I was hooked. Their 1910 patent for cleaning and waterproofing fabric wasn’t just a technical milestone; it set the standard for performance textiles used by soldiers in the First World War and by explorers who needed gear as resilient as they were.

What struck me most wasn’t just the utility — though waxed cotton is still unmatched in being weatherproof, breathable, and durable — but the way it evolves with its wearer. It softens, creases, and develops a patina that’s entirely personal. I’ve come to see it less as fabric and more as a living record of where you’ve been.

The more I learned, the clearer it became why this cloth had become a fixture of British estate culture — on Highland stalks at dawn, on riversides with ghillies and anglers, and later, in the drawing rooms of country houses. It’s one of the few fabrics that truly belongs in both worlds: rugged in function, refined in appearance.

That duality is exactly what Arc & Iveagh stands for. And after a year of working closely with Halley Stevensons, I can say with conviction: waxed cotton isn’t just a practical choice. It’s a heritage choice — one that connects our jackets to over a century and a half of survival, craftsmanship, and style.

Wax for the Future: Innovation & Sustainability

The deeper I went into Halley Stevensons’ story, the more I realized they weren’t just resting on a century and a half of tradition. They’re innovating in ways that feel every bit as forward-looking as they are rooted in heritage. That tension — past and future working together — is something that resonates deeply with me, and it’s why the Cairngorms Field Explorer became the perfect canvas for their most exciting development: 'EverWax Dry’.

EverWax isn’t one finish but a family of next-generation waxes. The shell of our Field Explorer uses EverWax Dry, Halley’s driest standard finish, designed with a cleaner look and a slightly stiffer, drier hand than traditional waxes. It still does everything waxed cotton is famous for — weatherproof, breathable, rugged — but with a more refined aesthetic. Within the same range, Halley has developed EverWax Olive, a finish created from olive, rapeseed, and castor oils. It’s fully biodegradable, vegan-friendly, and carries a softer, matte feel. Seeing how they’re experimenting with both plant-based and recycled formulations underlines that this is not a company clinging to the past — it’s one shaping the fabric’s future.

Inside their Dundee mill, the process borders on alchemy. Dyeing, waxing, and finishing all take place under one roof, on bespoke machinery Halley has fine-tuned over decades. Some fabrics are hot-waxed, others finished in stenter ovens, each method chosen for its effect on texture and performance. As a Bluesign® system partner, they hold themselves to rigorous environmental and safety standards, which only deepened my respect for their craft.

For us, EverWax Dry wasn’t just about selecting a fabric. It was about aligning with a philosophy: durability with conscience, performance with heritage. The Cairngorms Field Explorer needed to embody rugged function, elegance, and sustainability all at once. In EverWax, we found not just a material, but a mindset — one that will carry forward as confidently as the jackets themselves.

Living Proof: Jackets as Heirlooms

One of the things that has stayed with me most in all my research of “weather-proof” fabrics, was realizing that waxed cotton doesn’t just protect you from the weather — it remembers you. Every scuff, every crease, every faint watermark left behind by a sudden downpour becomes part of its story. Unlike synthetics, which fade, fray, and eventually find their way into a landfill, waxed cotton matures. It takes on the character of the person who wears it. No two jackets end up alike.

I’ve come to see this as part of the magic. When you pick up a waxed jacket that’s been worn for years, you’re not just holding fabric — you’re holding a map of the life lived in it. That resonance is rare in today’s world of fast fashion, where most things are designed to be replaced, not cherished.

Of course, waxed cotton asks for care. Reproofing, a gentle clean, the occasional bit of attention — it’s more ritual than chore. You extend its life, and in return, it becomes more yours. That rhythm of wear and renewal is what makes it heirloom-worthy. And if that’s not for you, there are certainly professionals — like Raffael Flores-Contreras and his restoration company “Raw Meat & Repair” — we spoke with Raffael and even wrote about our conversation earlier this year The Chronicles | Raw Meat & Repair .

This is why the Cairngorms Field Explorer is more than another jacket in the closet. It’s functional heritage — built to endure seasons, to travel, to weather storms, and eventually to be passed on. When I think of the first fishermen who oiled their sails, the Scottish millworkers who perfected the fabric, the Highland stalkers who trusted it on the moors — it feels like we’re adding another chapter to that lineage.

This is not just a shell against the rain. It’s a story woven in wax — one that carries the legacy of the past and the promise of the future, now ready to be worn into your own adventures.